I felt a bit wistful leaving Marrakech. Apart from a day in Tangier, over 30 years ago, Marrakech had been my introduction to Morocco 17 years ago, and it will forever occupy a wee space in my heart.
Leaving the city behind, we continued on the highway, travelling on seemingly endless plains of flat, arid and desiccated land. It appears relentless and brutal until you come upon fields of bright green trees, and vegetable lots. For miles there were no towns, until, rising out of the dust, there are buildings, and then a town, of the same hue. Waterways are dry, and the large man-made structures, for collection and distribution, also parched and moistureless. I think life is hard out here.
I see beauty, nonetheless.
We had a stop halfway through the 3-hour journey, for sustenance. “20 minutes” we were admonished….Funnily enough, back on the bus, there didn’t appear to be a head-count until we were underway 😳
And then….sights of the ocean, and here we are….Essaouira!!
A wind-surfers (now), and surfers (mid-year), delight. I learnt that summer is their ‘cold’ time here, with a mean wind that has the locals all rugged up in jackets. There were certainly wind-surfers aplenty plying their sport yesterday!
Our riad was easily found, thankfully, our hosts lovely, and our terrace-top room perfect, although being on the third floor, my tendency, at present, won’t be to be venturing out much!
Had a small wander through the Medina after our check-in but my present foot problem precluded any large excursions.
A delicious pasta dinner at a cute little Italian restaurant wound up our first day in Essaouira….splendid!!
The arrival in Morocco was marred only by my exhaustion from lack of sleep and the pain in my feet….O, and possibly the exorbitant taxi fare to the Medina (better to get the ripped-off bit out of the way quickly 🙄). And we had to walk the last bit as our driver didn’t know where he was going….But once ensconced in our riad, all was well.
On my last visit to Marrakech, my room had been close to the big square so I’d been hoping this one was too….much better to be close to the action….but the quiet and serenity of Dar Salam Palm soon won me over, and our host, Faisal, was completely disposed to making our stay unblemished.
The roof terrace 🧡
Being Jen’s birthday, we dumped our luggage and ventured off to find a nice restaurant for an appropriate lunch. It was sooo wonderful to again be able to order delicious vegetables, and fresh food that wasn’t beige!! Alcohol free, but a surprise addition from the gorgeous wait-staff of a wee gooey chocolate cake with ice cream, and a song, made it special.
Then it was off on a voyage of discovery…..discovering how often one can get lost in the Medina! Very often, being the answer to that 🤣
Eventually finding our way around, it was back to the riad for a ‘cup of tea and a lie-down’ to recharge. There wasn’t even a need for dinner….
The next morning a fabulous breakfast, of fresh fruit, pancakes and coffee was served on the terrace, then we were off to delight in the treasures of the souk.
I find it’s better not to engage with the shopkeepers unless you’re actually intending to buy something, because these men are masters of their game, namely, extracting as much money from you as they can. That’s not to say they don’t do it charmingly….which is often the problem…. However, if you are buying, then the whole experience can be extremely pleasant, and fun. This was one such shop, which we emerged from over an hour later….
A few more purchases over the course of the day, topped off by massages in the evening, then off to the big square, Jemaa el-Fna, for dinner, and the pure wonder, of this place at night….intoxicating!!
Off to Essaoiura on the morrow for a spot of sea-change. Farewell Marrakech, it’s been lovely to catch up 🧡
Santiago, initially, appeared to be a big, brutalist concrete place, but once in the old town, it became charming….cobbled lanes, latticed iron balconies with potted geraniums and lots of cafes with outdoor tables. The cathedral, of course, a draw card for the majority of pilgrims, is all medieval magnificence, and the main plaza, enormous. Pilgrims/tourists had formed a line at least 500 metres long to attend one of the famous masses that occur daily, for the faithful or inquisitive. I decided to forgo the pageantry, being slightly allergic to queues, and heading instead to get a tattoo! Jen and I had decided that we’d both indulge in this wee folly on the trail….
That done (it was over pretty quick as there was also a queue at that place!) it was off to meet a couple of Camino women for dinner.
Having not booked any accommodation for Santiago, it seemed a bit touch-and-go that we were going to find any, but fortunately were directed to the ideal place…..the Seminario Menor. A grand old seminary converted to both dormitories and single rooms. How fabulous, my own room! I haven’t had that in 3 weeks! Great room, unfortunately not a great sleep! Ah well….
Our last night in Santiago, another pilgrim friend of Jen’s joined us for drinks and tapas, and then wandering in the direction of home, we came across a tiny bar with live music, what a treat. The perfect way to end this phase of the journey.
A 5.30 start to the next morning….off to the airport to fly to Barcelona. My first trip to this city, over thirty years ago, had been overshadowed by our van being robbed, and the repercussions of that, so I was a little dubious, but coming with Jen and her longstanding association with Barcelona, I imagined would be curative. Almost immediately, it proved to be so.
We found our hostel…..fantastic room, with real sheets and actual towels 🧡
Arrangements had been made to attend a flamenco show in the evening, so after a catch-up nap, we readied for the event I’ve long yearned to see. Dinner in the ‘Ramblas’, then off we went. The venue was a tiny bar with a slightly less tiny room beyond it….chairs were lined up across the room with a thin aisle down the middle, and the odd small table wherever it would fit, these in front of a small, low wooden stage. I’d heard flamenco shows were intimate, but hadn’t realised quite how so! A guitarist duly appeared and began to sound check. Having long loved flamenco guitar, it was all becoming very exciting!
Eventually the guitarist was joined by a woman with the traditional look. She sat down and began her own sound check. Soon after that they started, and another woman and a man, the dancers, appeared. O, what a show!! The passion was palpable, and being so close, one could see it on their faces….Spectacular, and unmissable when one is in Spain. Come especially!!! 🤩
What does one follow that with…..? Well, the Gaudi Park for one! Incredible!
So fabulous, but jammed with people and very, very hot, so headed off for some lunch, followed by the Gothic Quarter and the wonderful Moco Museum. This relatively new establishment pays homage to street art and its creators. I loved it! And splendid to see credit being bestowed on these modern geniuses.
Altogether absolutely fabulous!!! I followed the experience with a mojito at a groovy little bar, and pondered it further!
A quiet evening with a Jennifer-cooked dinner, and early night, in preparation for our 4am start….the flight to Morocco!!!! 🐪🐪🐪
Day 4 began from Arzua, a town famous for its cheese….which, by the way, was absolutely delicious.
We had spent the night in a hostel packed with pilgrims. Our room alone I reckoned to have at least two dozen sets of bunks, and every one of them occupied! This town was a major stop, apparently 😵💫
Before the hoards…..(half the room)
I’ve discovered at least two truths on this wee journey thus far…..I have lost my inhibitions about being naked in front of strangers (women), and these ‘travel’ towels that take up no space are absolute rubbish!! I hope more will become clear 🤔
We set off in the dark, at this point I will say that I bought, in NZ, a head-torch for this very purpose…..it’s in my luggage that goes before me to the next stop and hasn’t been on my head yet!!! 🙄
There had been rain through the night, so the trail was dewy fresh and a little muddy underfoot, but quite pleasant. Todays distance was to be 15kms, so we set off at a good pace, making at least 5 before breakfast.
Arzua, early morning….
It’s amazing the amount of people walking this trail. Young and old, men and women, fast and slow…. I’ve got to say I prefer the quieter moments between the crowds, so often just stand to the side and let people pass…Today, Jen and I kept pace, and together let the hoards go by.
Home tonight was Santa Irene….a quieter room but plagued by mosquitoes, bad enough to have to sleep with one’s head under the sheet….hellish in fact!!! We forged on the next day spotty and itchy…..
I had completely had enough at the end of the next 17kms….and then…the albergue was closed, NOT OPERATING closed!! Impressed, I was not! Jen though, was fazed only momentarily, and left me to find where we were actually meant to be. Hooray for her….only sometime later I was beginning to become a little perturbed….
It all worked out in the end 🤗 The actual albergue was relatively close by, but unfortunately Jen had found the uphill AND steps route initially. Lucky me to miss that one!!!
Friday, our last day with just 5kms to go. Jen set off with the sparrows to meet a couple of friends before they left town, and I began the day at a leisurely 7am. Once I ditched my suitcase after lugging it up a small mountain, and a well-deserved coffee, I started the last stretch. After yesterday’s effort of 17, feeling like 27, today’s mileage was an easy stroll, and I had arrived in Santiago within 30 minutes! It took considerably longer to reach the cathedral, and Jen’s welcome, however!
I found the airport quite confusing, not being a Spanish speaker, but eventually found my way both to my luggage, and then to a taxi. Another change of currency, thank goodness for plastic!!
It was lovely to be welcomed by Adam and Silvia, a childhood friend of son Will’s, and his wife, and their delightful daughter. I had the worst timing, although they knew I was arriving sometime, this week they had a packed schedule, so I was incredibly grateful to be received with such grace.
That evening we wandered, locally, to a tapas bar….the perfect introduction to Madrid! Next morning Silvia took me for a walk to ‘titty’ park, so colloquially named for its multiple rounded hillocks 😄 where I got a panoramic view of the city. Silvia, being a history teacher, was able to share a multitude of fascinating facts. This continued throughout the day, as in the afternoon we caught the Metro into the old city centre, first for a scrumptious lunch, then a tour of the city’s historical delights. Spectacular architecture, quaint streets, and fabulous tile-work!
The next day I was off pretty early to get to the first of my two train trips…..number one to Ourense, and then on to Sarria to meet Jen. Adios Madrid, and gracias Adam and Silvia…..I hope to return 😍
Well, here we both are in Sarria. After two train rides yesterday, both very pleasant with loads of leg-room, I arrived at 5.30 pm to Jennifer waiting at the station, perfect! A cute room with comfy beds had already been secured, so after ditching my luggage, we thought it was time for a celebratory beer and a catch-up.
We wandered up the road until we happened on a likely-looking venue, and with no further ado, settled in for a time. It was great to hear of each other’s travels since leaving NZ.
A fantastic nights sleep in our lovely room. Clear-out time being 9am, we were out early looking for breakfast, which perchance happened to be right opposite our pension, as luck would have it 😁
A hearty breakfast followed by a day of making ready for the beginning of mine, and the continuation of Jens’s, Camino.
My first dorm room tonight, but with wee semi- private pods….a curtain closing you off to the rest of your room-mates. Comfy and roomy enough, a lock cupboard, light and power-points….all necessities within reach. Having tried the earplugs I bought, however, I’ll be hearing all the night-noises that there are to hear….!!!
An early start….
We were up with the larks in the morning, and off while the full moon was still bright in the sky. I found my rhythm with my poles quickly, and with ease, and for the first few kilometres our pace was brisk. After 13, however, I had a wee pain developing in my hip. It became steadily worse, and after the next 10 we had set for the day, our arrival in Portomarin saw me barely able to get up the steps in our albergue! “O, what a sad and tragic end” to my Camino, I thought in dismay. The pain had become sciatica which extended almost the entire way down my right leg!
Jennifer, however, always the pragmatist, fed me on anti-inflammatories, I messaged my dear friend Pete the chiropractor, and he got back to me with a couple of handy tips, I had a good long sleep…..and ‘voila’, I was (almost) as good as new the following morning!! We decided to have an easy day, however, and caught a bus to the next town 15kms away. It was thought we could book into the hostel earlier than usual, at 10am, but this proved to be a misnomer, and it was actually the usual time of 1pm. Faced with several hours wait in a town that wasn’t on the A list, we made the decision to tread onward to the next town….another 15kms.
My pace was slow and steady, not wanting any complications as with the day before, so often I found myself walking alone….Jen being the seasoned Camino hiker was way off in the distance. It was very pleasant, though, wandering with my own thoughts, me passing the occasional pilgrim, and vice versa, with a “Buen Camino”.
At one stop, we happened on Denise, from Adelaide. After a very pleasant conversation we thought we might get together that night should it fall together….and as it happened, it did! We had a splendid evening of food, wine and laughter!
At the start of my day 3, I had sore toes so decided a change of footwear might be the answer. The sandals proved to be great for my toes but, unfortunately, not for the remaining bits of my feet! Not enough support or sole, I’ve determined, so it’ll be back to the shoes in the morning. 15kms today and another 15 tomorrow…..Santiago is getting closer!!!
It must be at least 12 years since I’ve seen the lovely Maryka, so to have a reunion imminent felt very exciting.
My arrival in the town had been extremely well-laid out in numbered steps by Shelley, Tez’s friend, so it was all very straightforward and hassle-free getting myself to her flat, where I was staying. Shelley was still at work, so I took myself off to town to find a bar, with internet, to contact Maryka. A short time later, there she was, no different to the last time I saw her, it was wonderful!
We sat in the garden, drinking wine and catching up on the years, surrounded by husband Jeremy and their beautiful children….the stunning vista of the mountains before us, a lovely reunion indeed! Dinner was the very Swiss Raclette….perfect.
The next day it was planned to go for a hike to Murren, a picturesque mountain village. I met Maryka and Clancy, her dog, we drove to a base point, and began our walk. It was a pleasant couple of hours with coffee half way, spectacular views and sunshine. At Murren we lunched, and marvelled at the vista, Maryka pointing out the various points where they skied, and general information about the area. At home I enjoy the view of my local mountain, Ruapehu, but it truly paled into insignificance in comparison to what I was seeing here!
After lunch we set off back down the mountain, until I was directed to ‘Trummelbach’ and Maryka continued on to get the car. The sign will explain it far better than I can…..Suffice it to say, however, that there was more magnificence to behold!
Incredible!
That evening Shelley and I decided to go out for dinner in town. I was to ride Shelley’s bike and she would skateboard…..I’m sure there was a huge amount of hilarity for anyone watching as initially I couldn’t even get ON her bike! Here I will quantify that the seat was far to high for me, and it was actually a mans bike ( with a cross-bar)!! Shelley lowered the seat, but once on I felt far too unsafe (with the opposite side of the road thing), that I just couldn’t do it…..we walked 🤣🤣 We called in briefly to Shelley’s work, an outdoor adventure company, to have a quick drink. The guys inside I identified immediately as kiwis and aussies by their loud ‘yobbo’ behaviour….and sure enough, I was right! Funny?….unfortunate?…..but definitely true! 😏🤣
The next day was a bicycle tour of the river and two lakes, one at either end of Interlaken with the river in between. Maryka had found me a bike more in keeping with my capability’s 🤣
I keep raving about the colour of these water-ways….that’s purely because they contain the most amazing colour water I have ever seen! Glacial….an opaque pale aqua blue, impossibly pristine! And cold! So cold I was dumbfounded to see two women nonchalantly enter one of the lakes, and swim out….deep! Made of tougher stuff than I!!
Another perfect day. The afternoon spent in a cafe by the river, blogging, and finally a farewell dinner with Maryka and family.
Up (very) early and breakfast with Shelley….she went off to work, and me to the train station, off to Basel, and the airport….Madrid, here I come!
It’s been a whirlwind five days in London. I really feel that I’ve ‘seen’ London this visit. Courtenay, having been a local forever, is a fantastic tour guide and has catered to my every scenic whim, and when he couldn’t, Sandra did. I’ve had an amazing stay!
I’ve seen and fed squirrels, and watched their cute antics, seen a fox, been a mudlarker, lunched on local fare (pie, mushy peas and liquor!), boated to the Thames Barrier, been to an antique market, sashayed about the West End, photographed a myriad of famous, and infamous, sites, and heard an incredible amount of interesting historical titbits. The weather has been balmy, windless, and even hot, and I’ve walked many kilometres (great training for the upcoming major walk,) I’ve been to Greenwich and Woolwich, and seen Little and Big Ben. I’ve walked the Tower Bridge, been to the seaside and gazed on miraculous works of art. And I’ve seen the ebb and flow of that iconic river. Thank you London, you’re extremely deserving of the old adage…..”When you’re sick of London, you’re sick of life!”
But most of all….thank you Courtenay and Sandra ❤️😸😸
And now I’m in France! A pleasant bus ride from London to Dover took us past blackened swathes where there had been recent wild fires, luckily involving no buildings I’m happy to report! There was the odd hold-up, as is usual at border crossings, but then we were on board the ferry bound for Calais. A smooth crossing, and quick…a bit less than 2 hours, time for a bite to eat and a glass of wine, and there, in the distance, was France! Once seen, we approached quickly, and, quick as a flash, we were ashore.
I’ve got to say, Calais, at the first few glances, seemed somewhat unfriendly…..high wire fences topped with coiled razor wire appeared to ring the city, inbound anyway, but once out the other side, the landscape changed enormously….Rolling fields and cute houses with high-pitched roofs, presenting an altogether bucolic welcome. Suddenly we’re in metric distances again and driving on the wrong side of the road! 295kms to Paris!
It’s a funny thing to say, but the landscape is different on this side of the channel. I’m sure it’s not my imagination, but even the sky is different. Hmmmm could just be that nearing storm 🤣
Its great to see wind turbines dotted through the countryside, and with the approaching ‘winter of discontent’ being brought on by the current refusal of Russia to share their gas resources, Europe at large is going to require all the electricity it can generate. My thinking is that the huge wind turbine is a thing of beauty anyway…..
O dear…from a half-full bus to a jam-packed one, such is the way of it, I guess. Hopefully sleep will come….
Bit of a nightmare journey, all-in-all, but never mind. Once in Zurich, all was good, the couple of people I asked for help were more than willing to steer me in the right direction. An amount of shock at the price of a coffee and small cheese bun…..😳….and the train ticket….But here I am now, on my way to Interlaken via Bern! Lovely….comfortable, clean, fast…..perfect after the last leg!
Grey skies and somewhat foggy, the train running through predominantly industrial areas, understandably, but in the near distance wooded hills with picturesque quintessential Swiss scenes, houses and the like. Again the landscape has changed…I’m enjoying the fact that although it is one land mass, each country has retained its individuality.
An early start after a fabulous sleep. I went for a short walk down to the river…..the Thames fascinates me with its huge tides, and the water-worn debris it leaves on its banks. Courtenay and Sandra had told me tales of ‘mudlarker’s’ and shown me jewellery made from old clay pipes reclaimed from these very beaches.
After breakfast it was off to St Pancras, a railway station saved from closure in the 60’s by John Betjenan ( who later became ‘Sir’ and is immortalised in bronze in the station). Courtenay was off to visit his mum, and I was seeking information on getting to Switzerland. Sandra and I found said info then headed off to Brick Lane…..London’s home of vintage clothing.
St Pancras
The Vintage Market in underground and houses perhaps 50 stalls, of which Sandra’s employer has two, with the bulk of his stock being the famous trench coat….the Burberry. A great many of them, Tony has customised, adding new patterned fabric panels, pocket flaps, collars and cuffs. One-off, bespoke, and utterly fabulous!! Initially I had 3 chosen but narrowed it down to 2…..however at £500-800 each, I have none 🤣 It was, however, a lot of fun, and I will certainly view the ‘trench coat’ in an entirely new light from here on!!
Today’s treat was a day at the seaside! Courtenay had bought train tickets to go to Littlehampton, near to the famous Brighton and 2 hours from London in West Sussex. Having never been out of London on previous visits, I was excited to be on a very comfortable train seeing some of the English countryside. And then, of course, paddling in the Atlantic Ocean! The day was rounded out with fish ‘n chips and a beer, and a visit to the local museum.
O, and as for the train….I’m off to Zurich by bus on Saturday morning. 🚌
Back in an airport, and funnily enough all is quiet once through the departure gate. Seems that the only destination tonight is Singapore/London. An early drop-off to get check-in done was to no avail, the queue was already serpentine….everyone having the same idea. Ah well, best laid plans and all…..
Brisbane was perfect. Pool and laughs, sunshine and warm, balmy weather, and meeting the lovely young woman who has invited me to stay at her apartment in Interlaken….Incredibly, this small mountain town in Switzerland where I have arranged to catch up with an old friend, is also the home of a friend of Tez’s who is holidaying in Queensland! That is evidence of the universe working its mysterious magic, I would have to say!!!
It’s wonderful to have been to a city, outside one’s own, often enough that one recognises neighbourhoods, and feels the familiarity of, say, a local cafe, or suchlike. Anyone who knows me knows my affinity with hand-knotted carpets, so of course a trip to West End to a fabulous carpet store was on the agenda. ‘Daniel’ remembers me now, as well he should, I make at least one purchase every time I visit 🤣
SINGAPORE……An easy flight to this immense and immaculate airport. The bulkhead seat helped, with plenty of room to stretch out my legs, and only one other person beside me. Unsure whether I actually slept….it didn’t feel like it, but several hours of closed eyes helped anyway. The sky is just starting to lighten, and pedestrian traffic thickening….Boarding will begin before I know it!
Travel Tales 